Hella FF50, Centech Fuse box and AutoSwitch

I bought the Centech AP2 fuse box from Easternbeaver.com for about $76.
The Hella FF50 fog and Hella FF50 Driving lights from Motogear4you.com for about $140 for both sets.
And the Autoswitch 5NB2 from cyclegadgets.com for about $25.
And finally I'm using the Migsel.com lighting bar for about $105.

I had to buy few other thinks at the auto shop that bring up the final install price to a little over $360 US dollars.

I didn't use the light bar you are seeing here. This one is the Finix bar, and in order to use 4 lights on a 1150GS you have to modify the turn signals. I don't want to do that.

The autoswitch arrived in a complete bag, with all you need to do the install.

And the Centech AP-2 Fuse box with all the wiring was also a very good buy.

This waterproof connectors I bought of eBay. They will go on the lights, so I can easy disconnect then if I need to replace it.

Some extra electrical parts I bought for this and future projects.

I removed the Blue Sea fuse box (model 5025) that I had installed and kept the Kildala plate to do the new installation.

I start stripping the bike for the gas tank and I did have 10.8gallons of gas... Took long time to empty it in 3 containers, then removed the windshield, and the panel cover plate. Also I removed the 4 screws that hold the BMW fuse box, but wasn't able to remove the BMW fuse box itself, but just removing the screws it makes the wires underneath accessible.

All stripped and the bike is ready to be worked on.

This is the Blue Sea fuse box that I removed. It's a fine box and very good, but it's too big to use with all the relays I have to install for the lights plus the big Touratech 41Liter gas tank I have, so unfortunately I had to remove it.

First, I located the negative wire for the turn light cancel button. It's the brow with white steeps, under the blinker control.

I tap on the brown wire with a white steeps, using the Autoswitch provided tap. Note the orange wire going to Autoswitch that I located on the other empty compartment.

Now the blinker box is back in place, and the autoSwitch AS-5NB2 is being place on that empty box, with the wires going underneath to the next compartment (for the relay). I'm installing only the FOG lights here.

I had to make a hole (5/8) on the BMW fuse box, so the wires can came out.

The relay for the Fog lights will be inside the BMW fuse box and the one for the Driving lights will be under the fuel tank, close to the high bean source. I could put it back here to, but I'm trying to minimize wires going back and forth on the frame.

The hole here is big enough to 6 wires:
Autoswitch power
Autoswitch and Relay ground
Relay power
Fog Lights Power
Autoswitch idiot light (2 small wires)
Centech relay trigger

Now, I stop working on the BMW fuse box (still incomplete) and start working on the Centech fuse box:

This is the Kildala with the Centech relay on the back.

And this is how it will lock like on the front.

I mount the Centech AP-2 upside down so the cables will have an easy flow. There are one set of cables with 2 power, one directly from the battery, other key relay and the ground and they bounce back to the plate, where the relay is located, and from there goes to the ground and positive on the battery.

After install the Centech fuse box, back to the BMW fuse box since now I have the distances for the cables there

The hole with wires coming out. Still have to get one wire in, for the Centech-AP2 relay trigger that will be in fuse #2.

The Hella relay you see right after the wires is velcro to the case. The connections is this:
87 is the white wire power to the lights
30 is the other white wire power to the relay
85 is came from Autoswitch magenta wire
86 is the black wire that carries ground to the relay and Autoswitch

The black whit white stripes is the Autoswitch idiot lights that will be installed on the cockpit.

A top view showing what was add to the box.

Driving the wires to the wrong. Note that I make sure to clear the tank back strap.

All wires are attached to the frame and the ones who are going to the fuse box are being drive to the other side, other wise would be a pain every time you want to remove the air intake.

This is where I decide to hang the driving lights relay. I just zip tie on a cable, under the fuel tank, near the top connectors.

The 85 magenta goes to the high bean wire.
87 black to the driving lights
30 white to the Centech box power
86 black to the Centech box ground

This is a view from the left side of the bike.

Where I tap the relay for the high bean.

I use the provided connector to tap on the white wire from the black connector. Note that there are 2 white wires. Use the lower one, not the top one.
Doing that, the driving lights will be ON every time the high bean is on and/or I flash the lights.

 

 

The final assembly for the hella FF50.

Now the Migsel.com light bar

This bar came from England in a very fast shipping. It worth the money in my opinion.

One side of the assembly. The lower is fog, the upper is driving.

I add those 3 spacer on the migsel setup. The two big ones goes on below the oil cooler and the small one goes between the screw and the bar. They will give about 3mm clearance between the oil cooler plastic and the bar.

This is the final assembly. I'm wrapping zip ties on most of the wires just to make sure they will not be loose.

This is my setup to get power to the Centech fuse box. Note that I tap on the low lights, then I have to make a 'mikey mouse'... I ordered the centex with a 18" ignition switch lead. I should have ordered it with 24"... to bad but that is the way I did it. The blue connector is the end of the centech wire, and the black wire is my mickey mouse.

My solution for connection all those wires on the front.

I'm trying to use 'liquid tape'. I spray it over the block and we will see if it work.

The final assembly with the fuel tank in place

I also install the GIVI lights for the break lights. Tap on the break wire under the passenger seat.

The location for my electrical block: behind the lights. I velcro it there.
There is a lot of wires going there now. I'm not sure if I like it, but on the other hand, I can't see how to avoid it.

FINALLY!!!

The bike almost done...

And done.

 

And there is the results: First picture low beam only, second low bean+fog lights, next high beam+driving lights, no fog.

 

 

The final squematics for my setup. (click for larger size)